A Nice Big Plate of Spaghetti

Its been awhile since I shared a recipe: so here is one to make now: a sun-drenched pasta that tastes of Italy's south. No matter where you are.

Welcome to Marlena’s Newsletter. I am posting this posthumously. Marlena passed away yesterday, suddenly. I was helping her with this newsletter and she had just asked me to tweek it. It was about our fabulous meal in Rome.- Judy Witts Francini

I’d like to tell you that this recipe for spaghetti, olives and anchovies, is from Napoli, because it tastes essentially of the south, and I’m such a…devotee…of wild southern Italian flavours and food culture.

In fact, though, I ate it in Rome, at the legendary restaurant, Il Vero Alfredo. I was tagging along with Judy Witts Francini and (Divina Cucina—food tours, classes and so much more). They were headed to the lush countryside of Umbria the next day; tonight was for beautiful rich pasta (and a breathtaking taxi tour of Rome by night aftewards).

Walking there, after our aperitivo (negronis on a sunny terrace surrounded by very chic people and lots of darling well mannered dogs) we passed a fork in the road; it seemed like a good omen.

Fork in the road, on the streets of Rome.

Oh: Very important: Il Vero Alfredo is the restaurant responsible for the whole world falling in love with tender noodles, and creamy-buttery Parmigiana-rich sauce. Just so you know.

One of the restaurants plates, with its insignia.

Fettucine Alfredo, the tender fresh noodles tossed and tossed and tossed with butter and Parmigiana until it forms a creamy sauce, is so famous as to be considered: an edible icon. And, as such, it could have been meh, the restaurant could have just coasted on its fame and the fame of the pasta, people would probably still come, but oh oh oh, no! They care, they care so much that each evening seems fresh, as if the restaurant is there to serve you; as if no one had ever made a fuss of their lovely pasta. In other words, it was wonderful.

The restaurant, with its photos of the famous on walls, the piano serenading diners with Italian songs, the waiters, the lighting, the terrace, the elegance of the place, was wonderful. Then, there was the fettucine: possibly the most lovable plate of pasta you could fork up. I was, of course, there for the fettucine.

When you order fettucine Alfredo at Il Vero Alfredo, a waiter comes to your table and tosses the pasta just for you. Its like a ballet.

But just before the waiter asked for my order, one of the group said: “Oh Marlena, you get the spaghetti with olives, and I’ll get the fettucine Alfredo, and we can share”.

Well, when the pasta was served, I think you know what happened, though I did manage to put a little mound of the pasta and a nice big fat olive on her plate because my god was it good! So good; and I wanted her to taste it.

I no longer cared about not ordering the fettucine. This wild, exhuberant, olive-y spaghetti tasted of a heat-drenched summer day in Rome, and made me feel so wonderful I couldn’t stop thinking about it all the next day. And the day after that.

When I got home, it was one of the first things I made, cobbled together from my taste memory. Was it as good in a drizzle-y English countryside day as it was in sun-baked Rome? It was good, it was wonderful, we ate and ate, and then did we lick the pan of its garlicky anchovy juices?

Whether or not it is as good in Waterlooville, I think that wherever you eat it—England, California, Shanghai, Dubai, the Arctic Circle, Bombay…. you will feel like you are in Rome. You might need to close your eyes first, but each mouthful will carry you away. I promise.

So many glamourous people have eaten there; the photos cover the walls. But also everyone else eats there, famous or not, glamourous or not, and we are all treated the same: served beautiful exquisite food, with great hospitality and a flourish.

Exuberant Pasta with olives, anchovies and capers

I made this the first time, using spaghetti; then, the other night I made it using bucatini, and it was pretty wonderful too. Then I made it using half spaghetti half bucatini. They are both good. I might even like the half and half one the best.

Serves 4

About 4 slices of country bread, crusts removed or not, as you like (or pita, or sourdough, etc), grated/chopped in food processor, into breadcrumbs

6-8 anchovies, oil cured or salt cured (in which case, rinse and pat dry), cut up or coarsely chopped

6 tablespoons olive oil, plus more if and as needed (or start with less)

5-6 cloves garlic, grated or finely chopped

10-15 small whole grape or cherry tomatoes

20 or so fat black oil cured olives, pitted but otherwise fairly whole (ish) (or halved)

2-3 heaped tablespoons capers, plus some of their juices (if salt cured, rinse before adding)

Dry oregano leaves to taste, crushed between fingers

1 lb spaghetti ( or bucatini)

2-3 heaped tablespoons chopped flat leaf parsley (or mixture of parsley and basil)

Salt and red chile flakes if/as needed

In a heavy frying pan, lightly toast the breadcrumbs with a little bit of the olive oil (and garlic if you like) from the ingredient list. When golden and crisp remove the crumbs onto a plate and set aside.

Wipe the pan of any leftover crumbs, then add the anchovies and about half the olive oil, and let the anchovies melt into the oil, over medium low heat; when they have become one (or pretty much so) with the oil (which will only take a minute or so), add the grated garlic, then the small tomatoes.

Saute together until the tomatoes soften or slightly char, then remove the tomatoes to a plate. To the pan add the olives, capers, oregano, warm through together, then set aside while you boil the pasta.

Boil the pasta in salted water, until al dente; drain, reserving at least a cup of the cooking liquid.

Return saute pan to heat, warm through, then add the drained pasta, toss with the ingredients in the pan, add the reserved pasta water, and toss toss toss stir stir stir, until the cooking liquid emulsifies with the other juices in the pan; add the reserved small tomatoes, the chopped parsley/basil, the chile flakes to taste, the olive oil as desired, and the breadcrumbs.

Serve immediately, hot and saucey (both the pasta and you).